The Arts & Crafts of Ludhiana, Punjab
Art is described as a creation or expression of something beautiful especially
in a visual form and Arts and Crafts as a phrase means decorative designs and
handicrafts. In this field, also, Punjab has the hoary and distinguished
tradition which its people have maintained in spite of vicissitudes of time.
Take as simple a thing as mud for example. Plastering the walls with mud and
drawing ferns, plants, several other fascinating motifs has been a way of life
of the woman of Punjab. They have also been making paper mache utencils for
storing house hold necessities in colourful designs for a long time past, out of
a paste made by mixing paper
and various kinds of earth. A few decades ago, Sarcanda, a kind of tough; thick
elastic grass used to grow in plenty at places which have now come under the
plough. Out of this grass roofs of all sizes (which provided air conditioning)
were fashioned in circular shapes. After shaving, thin straws of this grass were
woven into beautiful carpets and curtains. Another useful household contrivance
called Chhaj in Punjabi was manufactured out of sarcanda which is used for
separating edible stuff from .the grain. Screens, used as a parting between
wheat and hay, for instance, were also woven from this stuff. Baskets used for
keeping haber dasbery (pins, cotton, buttons, needles, threads) in different
shapes and colours and covers were contrived by young girls by using shaved
sarcanda and coloured cotton thread which were taken by them as a part of dowry.
In Punjabi these are called katnees. One wedding song goes like this.
Punjabi (Tyari ho
gayi patolaya teri katni nu phul lag gaye) Arrangement for you have been made O
beautiful one-Katni has now blossomed forth.
The shavings of
sarcanda chicks and coloured cotton threads were also used to weave Chiks,
Bohiey, Pitarian, (useful household articles) and kind of chairs called Moorras.
Brushes for white washing were also made by hands out of munjhs. Although these
crafts of Punjab are not yet completely forgotten, yet they are moving fast
towards fading out.
Weaving of Durries (cotton bed or floor spreads) in myriad motifes and designs
especially by young girls in the villages has been a long tradition in Punjab.
These are also woven in stripes, cheek boards, squares, motifs of birds, animals
and even plants as a part of dowry. Needle work of Punjab is unique, it has
beautiful names because of its associations with beautiful aspects of life and
the beautiful designs which the dextrous fingers of Punjab's proverbially
beautiful women create have
such a wealth of forms and motifs that they defy enumeration. Some of these are
called Baghs, literally a garden, Phulkaris, literally flower work, rummals,
scarfs. The patterns of needle work done on the bed spreads, chunnis, dupattas
(these are head covers) and shirts and Salvars, are still different. Needle work
on phulkaris is done on a deep coloured cotton cloth with striking silk threads.
The threads is pierced upwards from underneath the cloth into free-hand motifs,
while in the Baghs and Rummals such cloth is worked on the top side only. These
were traditionally used for wear but now are exported as wall hangings and sewn
as jackets etc. Punjabi hands fans like the Japenese are
almost typical
and their leaves are made in much the same way as phulkaris etc. are made. The
shoes made in different parts of Punjab out of self lured leather have different
traditions. Light shoes were considered the best and to explain this aspect the
cobblers used to say that even the sparrows can fly with them. Earlier shoes
which have come to be known as Punjabi Juttis throughout the world were
embroidered with gold and silver wires all over in different patterns covering
every parts of the pair so that it looked as if it was made of solid gold and
silver. Now even when golden and silver threads are used to embroider these
shoes, the quality of these world famous shoes is still maintained.
The wood work of Punjab has also been traditionally famous. Artistic beds with
comfortable, skillfully made, back rests fitted with mirrors and carved
colourful legs called Pawas, low seats called Peeras, Peerian were made by
carpenters in almost every village. Their skill has passed into folk songs
(Raati rondi da
bhij gaya Ial bhangoora) weeping last night my red Swing became drenched.
Furniture designed in Punjab and boxes, toys and decorative pieces made out of
wood are exported. In giving lacqueur finish to wood crafts, in adorning it with
coloured mirror and in engraving wood, inlaying ivory (now white plastic only)
the workmen of Punjab have been renowned.
The onslaught of high technology is putting a premium on the arts and crafts in
the modern era and it will require special efforts to preserve them for
posterity.
Bhangra celebrates the harvest and is associated with the
festival of Baisakhi (April 13) when the sight of tall heaps of
golden wheat fill the farmer’s heart with joy. To the
accompaniment of large drums called dhols, he and his fellow
villagers circle round and round in a leaping, laughing caper.
It’s a dance that cuts across all divisions of class and
education. At marriages, parties, or celebrations of any sort,
it is quite common for men to break out in Bhangra. There are
few sights more cheering than that of a dignified elder in
three-piece suit getting up to join the young fellows for a
moment of bhangra revelry. Gidda
Women have a different but no less exuberant dance called gidda.
The dancers enact verses called bolis, which represent folk
poetry at its best. The subject matter of these bolis is wide
ranging indeed – everything from arguments with the
sister-in-law to political affairs figure in these lively songs.
Aside from the drums, the rhythm of this dance is set by the
distinctive hand-claps of the dancers.
Jhumar
This dance has originally come from Sandalbar (now in Pakistan),
but is now very much a part of Punjab folk heritage. It is a
dance of graceful gait, based on specific Jhumar rhythm. Dancers
circle around the drummer, and keep up a soft, sibilant chorus
as they dance.
Luddi
Luddi is a victory-dance recognisable by the swaying movements
of the head. Its costume is a simple loose shirt. The performers
place one hand at the back and the other before the face; the
body movement is sinuous, snake-like. This is also danced with
the drummer in the centre.
Julli
This dance associated with Muslim holymen called pirs and is
generally danced in their hermitages (khangahs). This dance is
mostly performed in sitting posture, sometimes it is also danced
around the grave of a preceptor. A single dancer can also
perform this dance. Normally the dancer wears black.
Dankara
Also called the gaatka dance, this is a dance of celebration.
Two men, each holding colourful staves, dance round each other
and tap their sticks together in rhythm with the drums. This
dance is often part of marriage celebrations.
Dhamal
Similar to bhangra and is danced by men in a circle.
Sammi
Traditionally by women of the Sandalbar region, now in Pakistan.
The dancers are dressed in bright coloured kurtas and full
flowing skirts called lehengas. A peculiar silver hair ornament
is associated with this dance.
Jaago
Literally, "wake up!" When there’s a marriage in the house,
girls dance through the village streets carrying a pot (gaggar)
decorated with lightened candles and singing jaagu songs. The
theme of song in the ‘Jago’ is social and typically a bit of
teasing (often aimed at elders) goes with the song.
Kikli
This dance is performed by women in pairs. They cross their
arms, hold each other’s hands and whirl around singing folk
songs. Sometimes four girls join hands to perform this dance.
A generation ago,
the turban was the "crowning glory" of all Punjabis whether Muslim, Hindu or
Sikh. Muslims and Hindus have given up their turbans, but it
remains,
literally, an article of faith for Sikh men whose religion forbids them to cut
their hair. The kurta, a long straight-cut, loose shirt teamed with pyjamas, the
loose baggy salwar, or a kind of sarong called a loongi or tehmat makes up the
traditional dress for men. Winter sees the rustic Punjabi in colourful sweaters
that wives and mothers are so skilled in making. A blanket finishes his
ensemble. When the urban, educated Punjabi steps out to work he will be in shirt
and pant or a suit—sartorially indistinguishable from his counterparts in Tokyo
or Toronto. Back home in the evening, he is likely to be found in more
traditional dress. The traditional Punjabi shoes, called juttis retain their
popularity with both rural and urban men; they are both elegant and comfortable.
Patiala and Muktsar are famous for juttis.
It is
impossible to tell by dress whether a Punjabi woman is a Hindu, Muslim, Sikh or
Christian – they all dress in salwar topped by a kameez (a garment that can be
fitted like a dress loose like the kurta) and accented by a rectangular scarf
about 2.5 metres long called the chunni or duppatta . She’s fond of her
sweaters, but she is passionately proud of her collection of woollen shawls.
These can be breathtaking. The women of Punjab are responsible for the state’s
most famous item of handicraft – the phulkari. This is a shawl completely
covered in dense silk embroidery, folk motifs in jewel-tones on an ochre
background. Gold is her weakness – brides are loaded with it. The jewellers of
Punjab stock an enormous range of designs in bangles, necklaces, rings and
earrings, nose-pins, ornaments to pin in the hair, anklets and toe-rings. A
particular kind of bangle is the tip-off in recognising Sikh men and women. It’s
called a kada and is made of steel. http://www.ludhianatourism.com
and various kinds of earth. A few decades ago, Sarcanda, a kind of tough; thick
elastic grass used to grow in plenty at places which have now come under the
plough. Out of this grass roofs of all sizes (which provided air conditioning)
were fashioned in circular shapes. After shaving, thin straws of this grass were
woven into beautiful carpets and curtains. Another useful household contrivance
called Chhaj in Punjabi was manufactured out of sarcanda which is used for
separating edible stuff from .the grain. Screens, used as a parting between
wheat and hay, for instance, were also woven from this stuff. Baskets used for
keeping haber dasbery (pins, cotton, buttons, needles, threads) in different
shapes and colours and covers were contrived by young girls by using shaved
sarcanda and coloured cotton thread which were taken by them as a part of dowry.
In Punjabi these are called katnees. One wedding song goes like this.
The shavings of
sarcanda chicks and coloured cotton threads were also used to weave Chiks,
Bohiey, Pitarian, (useful household articles) and kind of chairs called Moorras.
Brushes for white washing were also made by hands out of munjhs. Although these
crafts of Punjab are not yet completely forgotten, yet they are moving fast
towards fading out.
e
such a wealth of forms and motifs that they defy enumeration. Some of these are
called Baghs, literally a garden, Phulkaris, literally flower work, rummals,
scarfs. The patterns of needle work done on the bed spreads, chunnis, dupattas
(these are head covers) and shirts and Salvars, are still different. Needle work
on phulkaris is done on a deep coloured cotton cloth with striking silk threads.
The threads is pierced upwards from underneath the cloth into free-hand motifs,
while in the Baghs and Rummals such cloth is worked on the top side only. These
were traditionally used for wear but now are exported as wall hangings and sewn
as jackets etc. Punjabi hands fans like the Japenese are
almost typical
and their leaves are made in much the same way as phulkaris etc. are made. The
shoes made in different parts of Punjab out of self lured leather have different
traditions. Light shoes were considered the best and to explain this aspect the
cobblers used to say that even the sparrows can fly with them. Earlier shoes
which have come to be known as Punjabi Juttis throughout the world were
embroidered with gold and silver wires all over in different patterns covering
every parts of the pair so that it looked as if it was made of solid gold and
silver. Now even when golden and silver threads are used to embroider these
shoes, the quality of these world famous shoes is still maintained.
(Raati rondi da
bhij gaya Ial bhangoora) weeping last night my red Swing became drenched.
Furniture designed in Punjab and boxes, toys and decorative pieces made out of
wood are exported. In giving lacqueur finish to wood crafts, in adorning it with
coloured mirror and in engraving wood, inlaying ivory (now white plastic only)
the workmen of Punjab have been renowned.
remains,
literally, an article of faith for Sikh men whose religion forbids them to cut
their hair. The kurta, a long straight-cut, loose shirt teamed with pyjamas, the
loose baggy salwar, or a kind of sarong called a loongi or tehmat makes up the
traditional dress for men. Winter sees the rustic Punjabi in colourful sweaters
that wives and mothers are so skilled in making. A blanket finishes his
ensemble. When the urban, educated Punjabi steps out to work he will be in shirt
and pant or a suit—sartorially indistinguishable from his counterparts in Tokyo
or Toronto. Back home in the evening, he is likely to be found in more
traditional dress. The traditional Punjabi shoes, called juttis retain their
popularity with both rural and urban men; they are both elegant and comfortable.
Patiala and Muktsar are famous for juttis.
It is
impossible to tell by dress whether a Punjabi woman is a Hindu, Muslim, Sikh or
Christian – they all dress in salwar topped by a kameez (a garment that can be
fitted like a dress loose like the kurta) and accented by a rectangular scarf
about 2.5 metres long called the chunni or duppatta . She’s fond of her
sweaters, but she is passionately proud of her collection of woollen shawls.
These can be breathtaking. The women of Punjab are responsible for the state’s
most famous item of handicraft – the phulkari. This is a shawl completely
covered in dense silk embroidery, folk motifs in jewel-tones on an ochre
background. Gold is her weakness – brides are loaded with it. The jewellers of
Punjab stock an enormous range of designs in bangles, necklaces, rings and
earrings, nose-pins, ornaments to pin in the hair, anklets and toe-rings. A
particular kind of bangle is the tip-off in recognising Sikh men and women. It’s
called a kada and is made of steel.